Inside Atelier New York

Style, exclusivity, and craftsmanship – this is what Atelier New York is all about. I’m sure that it may be known to many, but I recently made my first visit to this sleek, beautifully-designed men’s boutique in downtown Manhattan (though I’m told some women like it, too).

The store was founded by stylist Karlo Steel and art dealer Constantin von Haeften in 2002. They relocated to their current space a year and a half ago – and it looks amazing. Constantin designed the interior in collaboration with MR Architecture. It’s industrial chic – tinted concrete floors, original cast-iron columns, soaring ceiling heights – with impressive art by Richard Serra, August Sander, César, among others.

Menswear and accessories at Atelier

Karlo graciously greeted me and spent a lot of time explaining the specially-curated selection of men’s fashion that they sell. One of the most remarkable aspects of the store is the limited edition items. Just as women want something unique, men, too, want to look special – to wear something no one else has. It’s clear that Karlo and Constantin work very hard at finding the new and different – but also the highest quality.

Clothing selection at Atelier New York

Carol Christian Poell is one example. He’s a third generation Austrian tailor based in Milan. Karlo calls him a bit of a mad scientist – a brilliant designer who combines strict tailoring and experimental touches. He has a huge underground following. I really liked this scar-stitched horse leather jacket – it’s dyed after it’s cut and has these cool box pockets and elbow seams.

Carol Christian Poell horse leather jacket

Box pockets

Elbow seam details

These CCP chainseam spiral pants were made with a single spiral seam.

Carol Christian Poell pants

Carol Christian Poell chainseam spiral pants

m.a+ is another exceptional line at Atelier. Maurizio Amadei was a former Carpe Diem designer and now he handmakes clothing, shoes and bags on his own in Rome. He uses as few cuts as possible – sometimes a single piece of fabric or leather. This side pocket jacket made of Japanese linen is really special – it molds to the body the more you wear it – I wouldn’t even mind it for myself…

m.a+ Japanese linen jacket

Karlo also introduced me to Label Under Construction, founded by a former knitwear designer for Carpe Diem – obviously Carpe Diem had some incredible artisans working for them before they folded a few years ago. The clothing is reversible – so it’s like getting two pieces in every one. Karlo explained that designer Luca Laurini uses a lot of vintage fabrics – military sleeping bags, for instance – and there are no tags – just a small hole in the back to indicate the brand.

Label Under Construction knitwear

These are just three of Atelier’s special lines – all hand-crafted with meticulous finishes and made in extremely low production numbers. But they also carry Ann Demeulemeester, Comme des Garçons Homme, Yohji Yamamoto, Damir Doma and Yves Saint Laurent. In fact, great story – Stefano Pilati walked into the store one day and loved it so much, he offered to make a few exclusive YSL pieces for Atelier. Karlo, below, holds up one of the pants Stefano designed.

Exclusive YSL full leg pants

Limited Edition YSL bags

The footwear at Atelier is beyond – rugged and artistic – like nothing I’ve really seen before. In addition to shoes by CCP and m.a+, they carry Guidi – made with elk, kangaroo and horse hides – and Augusta – object-dyed with vegetable oil.

Augusta Lace Up boots

Checking out the m.a+ calf leather detachable high boots

Karlo helped design this beautiful bag with Guidi – love the woven cross-stitching.

Horse leather woven large Guidi bag

Accessories inside a custom display table

Atelier has jewelry, too – lines that Karlo has admired and carried for years – Ann Demeulemeester, Betony Vernon, and lots of great pieces by Werkstatt Muenchen and Shaun Leane (who did all the silver work for the Alexander McQueen collections and was his best friend of twenty years).

‘Venus of Love’ Bracelet by Betony Vernon

Silver spiral ring by Werkstatt Muenchen

Everything about the store – from the artisanal labels to the interior design – is very selective. Even the fitting rooms are special – with a Rei Kawakubo chair from the ’80s and black cowhide walls. Karlo is extremely knowledgeable and just a cool guy all around, wearing Comme des Garçons pants, an Ann Demeulemeester jacket, a Dior Homme vest and shoes by m.a+ when we met. My entire experience was fabulous.

Atelier fitting room

The store may be suited best for a more creative type of guy – but even an uptown man could find pieces to jazz up his wardrobe. And for the guy who has everything? They sell cashmere underwear, too. It’s about understanding – and appreciating – the quality, craftsmanship and attention-to-detail here at Atelier.