I have known Stéphane Rolland for many years, since back when he was designing for Jean-Louis Scherrer. Now he heads up his own line of Haute Couture, and has really evolved as a créateur. This season’s défilé was an enormous production: it took place at the Palais Chaillot at the Place du Trocadéro (the same spot where Armani showed Privé), but you could have thought it was happening in a foreign land. In fact, it all reminded me of the Temple of Dendur at New York City’s Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Carmen Dell’Orefice, left, and Olivia Palermo, center

I happened to walk into the Palais at the same time as the incomparable Carmen Dell’Orefice–who, it turned out, was a source of both inspiration and collaboration behind this particular collection. I’ve always admired Carmen, and been a little in awe of her: she has enduring beauty and glamour even at the age of 80! We chatted as we walked in together, and I told her a story about taking my daughter to a little ice skating rink on Lexington Avenue where Carmen happened to be taking lessons as well. She remembered the place and was charmed to recall it–and, I can tell you, she’s still as electrifying in person as ever.

Stéphane has great respect and admiration for Carmen (who literally embodies glamour), and was inspired to design a collection offering women all the beauty they want and need. There were wonderful colors–billowing satin gowns in jade green, petrol blue and café au lait–as well as gorgeous black. Some of the dresses were accessorized with bold jewelry (not my taste), but there’s probably a market for the look: many of Stéphane’s clients come from the Arab world, as well as China and other parts of Asia.

Although Carmen was the main attraction (which was smart on Stéphane’s part), I don’t see many Americans wearing these dresses, except perhaps for a few. That said, his fabrics, colors and flowing silhouettes were incredibly dramatic, and there were several pieces I absolutely loved. I just wish he would leave out the big jewels: the gowns would be prettier!

Susan with Stéphane Rolland, after the show

When I spoke to Stéphane after the show, he talked about two sources of inspiration: China, and his collaboration with Carmen. I so identified with what Stéphane said about this amazing woman: indeed, Carmen is a vision, and a source of inspriation for us all. And while the collection wasn’t entirely to my taste, I understood what Stéphane was trying to convey. My love went to the simpler gowns, which were very luxurious–and so utterly couture!

Photographs by Stephane Israël