HAUTE COUTURE SPRING 2012
The magnificent Hôtel d’Evreux, on the Place Vendôme (right next to the Hôtel Ritz, and surrounded by some of the world’s finest jewelry boutiques), is a perfect setting for Riccardo Tisci’s Haute Couture presentations for the house of Givenchy. It’s always a pleasure to visit this beautiful spot, where three rooms have been set up to display the full range of Tisci’s masterpieces. This sort of presentation is often the best way to view a collection: there’s no time limit, and the clothes can be seen to advantage. That’s important when the pieces are as extraordinary, and as severe, as Tisci’s gothic creations.
A collection like this represents what the Haute Couture is all about: it’s not a runway show with dozens and dozens of looks, just a small selection of extraordinary pieces showcasing Tisci’s talent. I loved a white blouse shown with a long black skirt (with a zipper on the bias)– the top was strewn with delicate pearls and soft sequins that shimmered just enough to create a glow.
Riccardo’s accessories were just as amazing: the shoes were real standouts, and the jewelry was stunning, too. Most of the looks were displayed on mannequins, but there were a few models moving through the rooms as well–they looked rather aggressive, with rings in their noses and enormous necklaces that looked like jeweled armor. This punk aesthetic was obviously meant to make a statement, but it seemed too heavy-handed–the clothes and accessories looked beautiful and interesting enough on their own (and without that nose ring). But in any case, it was a wonderful experience to be “up close and personal” with Riccardo’s extraordinary imagination.
Photographs by Stéphane Israël