America is world-famous for its big sportswear brands, but there have been times, over the years, when designers in New York (and in Los Angeles, during Hollywood’s Golden Age) have turned out items of tailored chic to rival Europe’s fashion capitals. Perhaps being born in Hamburg, Germany, has something to do with it, but whatever the source, New York designer Robert Geller is currently doing just that–and, in the process, designing men’s clothes that are comfortable, sporty and elegant, all at the same time.

New York’s menswear designers show at least two full months after their European counterparts (Paris Men’s Week, for example, was in June), making certain comparisons unavoidable. So, yes, Dior Homme and Lanvin accessorized their défilés with outsized fedoras, just as Geller did; and there were also hints of Kris Van Assche. That said, this was really a “Robert Geller” collection, from his deft combining of tailored pieces and soft knits to the palette: grey, black and white shot with soft gold and mustard, plus blue in every shade from bright sky to cool petrol to the navy of a thundercloud.

Robert also knows leather, and this collection used it for everything from ruggedly-elegant belts to lean motorcycle pants, as well as a collaborative footwear line produced by Common Projects. Meanwhile, we found ourselves compiling one long shopping list, all the while thanking Robert Geller for consistently upping the chic factor of New York Fashion Week.

––Mark Grischke

Photographs via Style.com