The phrase “New York Fashion Week” is a misnomer: the official schedule runs for nine days (not just seven), and participating designers come from all over the world, well beyond the city’s five boroughs. In fact, one of this season’s highlights was the J. Mendel collection, designed by a Frenchman, Gilles Mendel. It wasn’t flashy (it featured soft shapes and a neutral palette), but that was part of its charm. From chic day clothes and furs to gorgeous evening gowns, J. Mendel really knows how to put on a glamorous show.

I loved the white group that opened the show, including one short, layered jacket with a peplum that was cool and chic. There were some very pretty knit pieces, outstanding leathers and furs, and young-but-sophisticated architectural dresses reminiscent of Azzedine Alaïa, whose work I adore.

As for the gowns (in combinations of chiffon and bias-cut silk charmeuse, with or without beading), they were truly elegant–and the shorter ankle length on some of them looked very young and fresh. I also noticed how the models had been styled with loose, almost-uncombed hair, which was worn down, free and easy, with a certain je ne sais quoi chic. Seeing as I’m such a rabid Francophile, it’s really no surprise that I loved this collection! Superbe!

J. Mendel’s designer, Gilles Mendel, takes a bow at the end of the show

Photographs by Stéphane Israël