Before launching his own collection a year or so ago, Todd Snyder was a design director for menswear at J. Crew. He obviously knows what smart, young professional guys want to wear: a mix of tailored pieces, sophisticated knits, versatile pants (including jeans and khakis), and great outerwear. And while that list may not sound very exciting, Todd’s execution of these pieces makes all the difference between disposable basics and keep-forever classics.

Military influences have been big news in many of the Fall 2012 menswear collections, and Todd indulged in that trend a bit–but he chose to stress the utility of specific garments rather than an overtly macho mood. We loved the olive drab pants (some with cargo pockets), the layered, quilted vests and, in particular, a very handsome, tobacco-suede bomber jacket (with a two-way zipper) that looked as well-made as an original piece from the ’30s or ’40s.

Todd also did a great job mixing well-tailored jackets with other menswear classics, like vintage athletic gear or so-old-it’s-new-again outerwear (we love the anorak and the shearling parka). And we’ll obviously be keeping an eye out for more good things to come from this New York-based rising star.

––Mark Grischke

Photographs by Stéphane Israël