Véronique Nichanian has designed menswear at Hermès for more than 20 years, and she’s gathered an insider following of dapper guys–of all ages–who appreciate her deft eye. During her tenure chez Hermès, she’s essentially created an ongoing wardrobe for men, with each season offering new versions of updated classics–most of which never go out of style.

Her twists on the classics are subtle, having less to do with changing shapes and more to do with new materials, techniques, and color combinations. In other words, Véronique’s designs don’t spin on the axis of fashion–she tempts, instead, with the quieter allure of luxurious understatement.

Hermès for Fall 2011 is no exception–Véronique sent out one impeccable look after another, appealing to both practical and extravagant masculine tastes. Her classic pea coat, for example, instead of being made from heavy wool, looks brand-new when cut from navy calfskin. And, in her hands, a basic trio of jacket, shirt and pants, above, is lifted well out of the ordinary: the blazer, in felted jersey, appears both fitted and relaxed; the handsome shirt is cotton-and-cashmere; and the soft trousers are velvety lambskin. As I told Véronique after the show, she worked her magic again–we want it all!

––Mark Grischke

Runway images via Style.com