Brazilian designer Gustavo Lins originally studied to be an architect, but was sidetracked along the way by his love of fabric. Following that instinct, he moved to Paris; promoted his pattern-making skills to designer brands like Jean Paul Gaultier and Kenzo; and, and in 2003, launched his own label, the self-named GUSTAVOLINS. What’s interesting about his collections is how little they have to do with current fashion: like Zoran or Halston in their day, he cares more about honing an aesthetic than following trends.

As a result, his presentations during Paris Men’s Week are always low-key affairs–the main ingredients are a charming venue, a handful of models, a leisurely series of presto-changos and Gustavo himself, answering questions and drawing attention to subtle details in the clothes. One leather-trimmed coat reverses from silk to cashmere; trousers are cut like lounge pants, with a folding fly that closes with one button; and simple tops and gilets (in cashmere or cotton jersey, with a bit of stretch) have necklines that drape like scarves, or wrap-around ties made of butter-soft leather.

The designer preps one of his models to be photographed

Gustavo is a charming man with a ready smile and enormous patience–the experience of watching him adjust the drape of a model’s lapel before dispatching him to be photographed has a zen-like quality about it. And the clothes reflect this calm. They seem to say, Buy us now, and you’ll never be at a loss as to what to wear. If only more things in life could be this simple!

––Mark Grischke

Photographs by Stéphane Israël