PARIS MEN’S SHOWS FALL 2012
Without a doubt, the Lanvin men’s show has become so influential, it’s now one of the most-anticipated défilés on the Paris schedule. Under the guidance of Lanvin’s creative director, Alber Elbaz, and his menswear designer, Lucas Ossendrijver, each collection seems to find new, inventive ways of offering traditional men’s garments and near-radical departures. It’s a perfect balance, and one that leaves every guy in the room with a shopping list a mile long.
This season, Ossendrijver tore apart the suit and put it back together again–and, in the process, sharpened the lapels, built up the shoulders, nipped in the waist, lengthened the skirt and opted for unusual color combinations. He also played with that old-school symbol of masculinity, the briefcase, making it a bona fide fashion accessory rather than something you schlep to the office.
As usual, Ossendrijver’s outerwear lineup was remarkably strong, including round-shouldered flannel topcoats, close-fitting frock coats, fur-trimmed anoraks and perfect, puffy parkas. These classic pieces all looked shiny and new, as if they’d been carefully drawn by an 8-year-old child. They also had a charm that menswear sometimes lacks–not to mention a sense of humor!
Backstage, after the show, we congratulated Lucas and Alber on their extraordinary work, and watched as television crews from around the world waited patiently for the duo’s attention. Anyone who cares about beautiful clothes–from New York to Paris to Shanghai to Moscow–is now eager to learn what’s next chez Lanvin. And Lucas and Alber are happy to oblige.
Photographs by Stéphane Israël