Prêt-à-Porter Spring 2009:
Léonard, Giambattista Valli, Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent
Véronique Leroy, the head designer of Léonard seems to think it is time for some peace and love. The Hippie look she showed this season was a mix of mini dresses, maxi length gowns and widely cut jumpsuits. The inevitable Léonard signature prints were done in pale colors with spots of bright yellow and violet. The fringes that adorned most of the pieces gave the romantic collection a playful vibe. A very light and easy show.
Giambattista Valli’s collection for Spring 2009 didn’t lack any of the ingredients to become a hit with any uptown woman, either in Paris or in New York. The simple chic of the volumes seemed to be inspired by Cristobal Balenciaga, the grandmaster of sophistication. The shapes for daywear were mostly short petticoat or tulip dresses with überwide flowy coats. A crescendo of elegance built up and finally dissolved in cascades of tulle for the grandest of evening gowns. On the color side Giambattista played it safe this season: a lot of neutrals, a bit of black and his signature bright yellow.
At the beautiful location of the Carreau du Temple in the center of Paris, Givenchy designer Riccardo Tisci proved that creativity and commercialism can go hand in hand only too well. The gawking front row audience seemed to want to declare unison: I want everything! Leather jackets adorned with rhinestones, skintone mini sheaths and black supertight pants with white leaflike zigzag inserts were the strong points of this collection. Riccardo really proved just how elegant a bit of Rock ’n Roll can be.
Stefano Pilati’s show for Yves Saint Laurent in the Grand Palais was the first collection after the death of Monsieur Saint Laurent and an opportunity for him to show what he is really about and just how far he dares to go. Impeccable tailoring on jackets has always been a Saint Laurent trademark and Stefano now really takes it into the 21st century without losing that Parisian chic that is so important for the YSL client. This collection seemed to be a marriage between the east and the west, very elegant little black dresses contrasted with Harem inspired drop-crotch pants. The very dark color palette was quite dark: lots of blacks with a bit of white and nude.
After an exhausting day of shows, everybody gathered at the Givenchy party chez Regine’s.