PRÊT-À-PORTER FALL 2012
I’m a fan of Anthony Vaccarello and his distinctive, super-skinny clothes, made for girls like Lou Doillon, Laititia Crahay and Audrey Marnay (who were all seated in the front row at his recent show). Anthony’s designs look amazing on them–but they don’t really work for the average woman. And this season, after opening with Karlie Kloss looking sensational in slim pants and a loose blue coat (a combination that proved to be the highlight of the défilé) his collection turned out to be even more problematic than usual.
Some of the jumpsuits with bare shoulders or strapped necklines were simply too skinny; and a bra-like bodice Anthony used over and over again looked awkward, even on the models. Plus, many of the skirts were just too short and tight, especially around the derrière (even when shown on some of the best bodies in the business). Having to tug at one’s clothes is never sexy.
That said, Anthony’s style is unique, and I love his ideas. When I spoke to him after the show, I congratulated him and told him how much I liked the first cover of the redesigned Harpers Bazaar (featuring Gwyneth Paltrow wearing one of Anthony’s dresses). Recognition like that is crucial for a designer hoping to make it big in the States. I, for one, give Anthony high marks for creativity, and I look forward to seeing his collection next season!
Photographs by Stéphane Israël