Susan examines the cut and detailed workmanship of a David Koma shirt

During Paris Fashion Week, I always make a point of visiting the LONDON show ROOMS in Le Loft near St. Paul. Doing this in Paris allows me to see work by new British designers, without making an extra trip to London. And this season, yet again, David Koma was tops for me. He’s simply one of the most creative and talented new designers out there, and I’m always excited to see his collections. I can lose myself in David’s world, because his approach to design feels chic, cutting-edge and innovative, without going over the top.

A selection from David Koma’s Fall 2012 collection

David Koma’s shoes represent a collaboration with Alain Quilici, who created these greyhound heels

Susan with David Koma

His new-looking, yet retro-inspired, dresses were real stand-outs; and one of them (a chic grey-and-black version) fairly screamed my name! Next, David pulled out a fabulous coat and suggested I try it on: he was absolutely right, it suited me perfectly. He also showed me his take on the white shirt–a real reinvention–and his shoes (made in collaboration with Alain Quilic), with sculpted greyhound heels. I admired the creativity behind them–but I’m not the one to wear them. Still, I could have spent hours more with David. He’s a charming young man from Caucasus Georgia, and though he’s still at an early stage in his career, he already has the makings of a fashion superstar!

Modified baseball caps and witty pillboxes, by Piers Atkinson

While at LONDON show ROOMS, I also took time to see Piers Atkinson, an extraordinary milliner who worked for Zandra Rhodes for several years before launching his own collection of hats in 2008. His work is charming and inventive, and I tried on several hats hoping to find one that was suitable for a soirée I planned to attend that night. Unfortunately, nothing seemed to work with my intended ensemble –but the process was still lots of fun, all the same. Piers designs headgear that’s chic, witty or playful by turns, and most of his designs this season made me think of Michelle Harper (who happens to be a regular client, and for good reason–these inspired headpieces suit her perfectly). There were also two Japanese clients at the booth while I was there–both were very chic, very cool, and both looked great in Piers’ hats!

Beads, ribbons, felt and feathers

Piers Atkinson starts with classic hat shapes, then tweaks them as much, or as little, as he likes

Photographs by Stéphane Israël