Manish Arora designs under his own name, for his own label, but he’s also the creative director for the house of Paco Rabanne. Of course, it’s always challenging for a new designer to take the helm at such a well-known brand, especially one so deeply-rooted in its own sense of history (and of heritage).

I thought Manish did a great job–and I while I didn’t like everything equally well, there were many pieces I could easily imagine wearing. I especially loved his skillful combinations of fabrics and textures: and his use of chain mail–a house signature–was very successful, especially when used subtly. (The glitzy gold and silver looks were often a bit much.) I was also pleased to spot a sleek white pantsuit–simple and elegant–and a beautiful silver-satin coat that would be perfect for evening when mixed with something else.

I was also taken with one particular coat, cropped short, with short sleeves and a zipper around the hips, above. It looked very chic, and very new, and it seemed to strike just the right balance between the old Paco Rabanne (from the days of Françoise Hardy and Brigitte Bardot) and the modern needs of a contemporary woman, here and now, in 2012. Congratulations, Manish!

Paco Rabanne’s creative director, Manish Arora, takes a bow

Photographs by Stéphane Israël