Last season, Anthony Vaccarello invited me to his presentation at the Joyce Gallery in the Palais Royal. And because I’ve become more and more interested in emerging designers (fashion’s future), I went. The event was very small, so I spent time with Anthony, discussing his inspiration and his collection. I loved it and knew he would be a sucess.

This year, all of a sudden, BOOM –an article in American Vogue and increased distribution in many US stores. So while the venue was the same, this time around the crowd was huge! Plus, there was a mini catwalk all scrunched into the tiny space.

Needless to say, there was no room to move. It was also very dark, but there were lights projected at one end where the models stopped to pose.

Anthony took a new direction this season: pieces were still structured, but not as severe. Almost everything was black, and the skirts and dress were really short (which I assume was just for the show). Having said that, the originality of the silhouettes was like nothing I’d seen before: architectural but feminine at the same time, with lots of skin and transparency. One suit had its jacket attached to a skirt, making it very structured but bare at the same time. I suppose one would need to wear something underneath.

There were also some bathing suits–a bit strange, but still interesting. There’s definitely an evolution at work here and I see Anthony only getting better and better. I would even wear some of the pieces (but he would have to make them a lttle longer).

It’s great to be inspired by someone new, and I think Anthony is the current IT boy. At the show, I stood next to Susie Bubble (and Didier Grumbach, president of the Chambre Syndicale, stood behind me). Anthony Vaccarello’s clothes might not be for everyone, but the fashion crowd is certainly paying attention.

The designer being interviewed after his show

With Susie Bubble

Photographs by Arnaud Paumier