The beauty of attending both the Haute Couture and Prêt-à-Porter shows is seeing how each maison adapts the former’s labor-intensive themes and techniques to the requirements of ready-to-wear.

This past summer, Christian Dior showed a couture collection that was sublime and out-of-this-world amazing. Unfortunately, I didn’t see that wow factor in this season’s Christian Dior Prêt-à-Porter.

After the show, John Galliano told me the theme was “nautical,” inspired by his travels to Polynesia. As for links to the Haute Couture, the two I could discern were a return to floral motifs and a literal riot of color. But outside of that, I felt the collection lacked John’s usual spark and magic.

John Galliano is an amazing talent, but even the most brilliant designers have good, or not-so-good, seasons. This collection was a grand spectacle, but not one of John’s better efforts. My favorite part may well have been seeing the designer himself, strutting out in the end.

Sydney Toledano, center, President & CEO of Christian Dior Couture

That said, attending a Dior show is always a pleasure–the name alone draws such an exciting crowd. I was especially pleased to bump into Marisa Berenson (who recently appeared in the film, I Am Love). I congratulated her on her performance and told her it’s one of the best films I’ve seen. In fact, I still can’t stop thinking about it!

Kate Moss arrives at the Christian Dior show

I also happened to be entering the tents just as Kate Moss arrived. She looked fabulous, of course, but I was nearly knocked over by the swarm of photographers who were screaming at her to stop, turn or otherwise help them get a picture. She stayed calm, cool and collected, though, at the eye of the fashion storm!

With John Galliano backstage

Photographs by Marie Goujon. Runway photographs via Style.com.