VBH founder and head designer Bruce Hoeksema

Last month I reported on the incredible VBH flagship on Madison Avenue in New York. Now the label’s founder and head designer Bruce Hoeksema answers some of my questions about his bag and jewelry collections, his designing inspirations, and a few style tips of his own…

Susan Tabak: How did you get started in the handbag business and why?
Bruce Hoeksema: Friends, acquaintances and clients were looking for a special handbag that wasn’t necessarily mass produced and owned by everyone they knew. After 25 years of working in luxury fashion, I felt that it was a good time to offer something new and to fill that void.

I love that your bags have a discreet luxury about them. Has this been a deliberate part of your design strategy?
Absolutely. It is my philosophy to create a modern, chic and discreet collection rather than flashy and overdone pieces. Less is more and VBH is chic and sophisticated with a modern edge.

VBH Manila Lotus Python clutch in Shiny Batik

You show nearly 300 bags each season. How long does it take to create a collection, from start to finish?
A collection takes approximately six months to create. Sometimes, I begin developing materials and colors a year before – but everything takes at least six months.

What are some of your all-time favorite VBH pieces?
Manila Stretch, Nap Sac and our newest day bag, the Brera. Favorite jewelry pieces include the elegant ruby and sapphire bands and the black chagrin cuff with diamond buckles my friend Gwyneth Paltrow owns. The cuff gives a sophisticated, modern edge to any classic look. Also, I like the unusual shapes and colors in our stones. The stones themselves inspire me so I design the pieces around them. It’s more interesting than using the traditional cuts you see everywhere.

VBH Nap Sac Crocodile bag

I recently wrote about your flagship store in NY. It’s a masterpiece. How closely did you work with architect Peter Marino to design the interior?
I worked very closely with him, even designing many elements myself. He helped to bring out my vision for the store.

The VBH jewelry is sublime. How is the design process different from the handbags?
With jewelry design, the creative process is totally free and not inhibited by functionality. When it comes to leather goods, you feel more restrained by practicality and functionality.

VBH Doc bag in Safran Nappa

Any plans to expand your brand beyond women’s handbags and jewels?
Yes, men’s and women’s shoes, as well as men’s accessories, are in the plans for the future. Sunglasses, perfume and other basic accessories will also come with time. We do currently have men’s and woman’s small leather good such as belts and wallets.

What men’s accessories do you use?
I wear a belt, cufflinks, shoes, ties when necessary and a watch.

What is your signature look?
A well-cut suit or blazer and a beautiful belt with beautiful shoes. Depending on the situation, I wear jeans with a blazer and my Audemars Piguet watch.

Do you have a style icon?
I like to create my own style.

What’s your men’s fashion advice for business, for weekend wear and for evening wear?
For business, a man should look elegant and professional without looking boring. Men tend to be ultra conservative, but if you have the right cut suit with the right details, you have the ability to stand out. For weekend wear, I tend to lean toward a classic – open collar, white shirt and jeans in the warmer months and a leather jacket with a sweater and jeans in the winter. Evening looks should possess a bit of an edge and again, not be too boring. A belt, shoes and cufflinks should tie the look together.

Thanks so much to Bruce and his team at VBH. I am looking forward to visiting his Paris showroom next week. Bruce has impeccable taste – and I can’t wait to see more of his new collection.