Sultan Darmaki and one of his beautiful designs, Lulu, in pleated satin

We love beautiful shoes…and all the more so when they’re the work of a new designer. Sultan Al Darmaki, from the United Arab Emirates, studied public relations and marketing at school, but recently chose to follow his true passion: the design of extraordinary footwear. His company, DARMAKI, is based in London, and the shoes are handmade in Italy. Darmaki likes to quote another visionary shoe designer, André Perugia, who said “a woman’s personality is revealed by her shoes.” Darmaki’s dedication to his calling is obvious–indeed, the Victoria & Albert Museum has already added one of his shoes (a sandal called Lydia) to its permanent collection. We caught up with the designer over breakfast in New York (and via subsequent emails).

Susan Tabak: Your first career was in marketing, correct? What prompted the change to shoe designer?

Sultan Darmaki: Learning to appreciate art and beauty was a key part of my upbringing, and fashion as an element of expression was something my siblings and I were exposed to at an early age. I’ve been sketching women’s clothes and shoes since I was 12, but I never anticipated being involved in the industry at this level. Not until two years ago, when I suddenly realized that fashion design was my calling. It turned out to be the perfect time to follow my dream. And my PR and marketing experience has complemented my fashion career quite nicely–the synergies have worked well.

ST: What attracted you to designing women’s shoes? And what appeals to you most in terms of shoe design?

SD: I chose shoe design, first, because of my admiration for the craft of shoemaking; second, for the beauty of footwear through the ages; and, third (and most importantly), for the deep psychology behind footwear. Every pair of shoes, every style, grants the wearer the power of a new personality, and a woman can change her footwear according to a shift in sensibility or mood. For me, shoes are a perfect form of self expression.

Arabesque, in black suede with stone detailing

ST: How did you learn the art of shoemaking and/or design? Did you go back to school, or did you serve an apprenticeship with another designer?

SD: A few influential people in the arts saw my early sketches–they related my technique to Manolo Blahnik’s, which is humbling, considering the fact that I never took any courses nor had any formal design training. However, there’s a lot of technical know-how when it comes to making shoes, which is why we’ve partnered with factories in Italy already working for major fashion houses. I’m grateful my Italian team took me under its wing and taught me the technical aspects of shoemaking–it helped my design process.

ST: Where do you find inspiration for the shoes you design? When you’re designing a collection, what part of the process excites you the most?

SD: Culture–the craving to learn and understand another culture–truly inspires every collection. I’m also inspired by iconic muses who’ve left me with strong impressions: Sheikha Mozah Al Missned of Qatar; Empress Farah of Iran; Angelina Jolie; Daphne Guinness and, of course, Susan Tabak. What excites me most is that first stroke on a sketchpad when I sketch or paint: it transports me to another world.

The aptly named Red, in python skin with gold studs

ST: You say that a women’s personality is revealed by her shoes–what type of woman do you see wearing your shoes? And what differentiates your shoes from other brands?

SD: My aesthetic blends superior design, craftsmanship and materials to create original–even unconventional –styles: there’s a story behind each shoe to encapsulate the personality of the woman wearing it. She’s elegant, sophisticated and beautiful. Believe it or not, comfort is also a priority–and we don’t want to sacrifice it in the service of design. We hate seeing a woman suffer all night long in uncomfortable high heels–we’d prefer to see her dancing, free from pain! We want to bring luxury back to shoemaking, thanks to the meticulous craftsmanship that goes into every pair.

ST: What was the most important piece of advice someone gave you?

SD: A good friend of mine–a renowned artist–advised me to “Think Big!” When I was developing my concept for DARMAKI, (and the idea was still in its embryonic phase), I met with her to go over some sketches. She sensed immediately what I was trying to accomplish. She turned to me and said, “Sultan, think BIG, because that’s how masters before you got to where they are today.” Since that day, I’ve taken her advice as my philosophy in life.

ST: You’re a man of the world. Where is your favorite place to be and why?

My love of decadence inevitably leads me back to Istanbul’s W Hotel, where I indulge in my favorite dessert–pumpkin panna cotta. Once I’ve satisfied my sweet tooth, I find creative inspiration at Mehmet Cetinkaya Gallery, whose displays of vintage textiles always fire my imagination. I can never resist a trip to the fabulous Al Hamidiya market in Damascus, or to the fashion and antique stores in Beirut; and the Acropolis, in Athens, is my sanctuary–I love being surrounded by the Greek mythology I’ve been obsessed with since I was a boy. There’s also the Île St Louis, in Paris, which I love for its little cafés and views across the Seine. But there’s nothing like coming home to the United Arab Emirates, with everything from Dubai’s Royal Mirage Hotel to the Anantara Desert Islands Resort off the Abu Dhabi coast. When life gets overwhelmingly hectic, I ground myself with a visit to this peaceful desert terrain, including the gorgeous sand dunes of my hometown, Al Ain.

ST: How would you describe your personal style?

SD: Classic, but with a modern twist.

Lydia, a recent addition to the Victoria & Albert museum’s permanent collection

ST: What’s next for the Darmaki brand?

SD: Since launching the collection six months ago, we’ve been nominated as a global entrepreneur by UK Trade & Investment (UKTI). Most recently, the Victoria & Albert Museum acquired a pair of our shoes, which will sit side-by-side with designs by some of the greatest shoemakers in history–truly a tremendous honor–in a major upcoming exhibition. At this point, everyone in the company is looking forward to what’s in store for DARMAKI.